Lighting setup choices on photo booth

[bkiter1]

Hi!
I'm doing a little bit of research lighting and I would like your guidance/tips regarding the lighting setup.

I'm planning to build a portable outdoors unit that could convert to a indoors unit by attaching panels and curtains and top closure.

My current setup consist of a : canon rebel t1i - 19” touchscreen - Hiti P510S - acer laptop.

I need help on the lighting, please if you can see the attached image, I would like to know what kind of setup is recommended?
Should I use constant lighting or flash?
I like the effect that flash ring produces, could you recommend me a good flash ring?

I need something that doesn't become hot since the use time would be between 2 to 4 hour session.

I would appreciate your comments.

Thank you!

http://www.firenzes.com/light/lights.jpg

[PhotoJames]

After reading your post and looking at your pictures I have some questions. By outdoors booth do you mean a tower style booth that stands alone, ie an open air booth or do you plan on using it outside? My guess is that you are talking about a tower style booth. I looked at your mock ups and the first two have serious issues with the lights being placed too low. The third one would work but for the light to be bright enough you would be blinding the guests.

If you look at the sample picture that you included you will see a ring light in the sunglasses. This is probably a custom built ring light and uses a flash. Look around on the internet, I'm sure I've seen someone who did this and posted how they did it.

I like the ring light look but it is not without it's drawbacks. For a photo booth if you use a ring light or build some kind of a ring light it will put the camera farther away from the monitor (which is where everyone likes to look) so your guests won't be looking into the camera in the pictures. Just something to think about. A much better (and easier) solution is to build a soft-box above the camera and use a combination of daylight CFLs and monolight. That's what I've done in both of my booths.

Good Luck!

[bkiter1]

Hi James, thank you for your reply.

Yes, by outdoors booth I mean the tower style booth and for inside im designing a type of closure that I could attach to it.


If I use a softbox like this one
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/545234-REG/Bowens_BW_1670USD_Strip_Softbox_39_5x15_75.html

Inside I would place 2 daylight CFLs and the monolight in the center? If yes, could you recommend me a brand/model for a monolight and CFLs?

Thanks!

[PhotoJames]

I would suggest that you build the softbox into the booth, and by that I mean construct the top of the booth so that it acts as a softbox. As far as modeling light I used the stick flo lights in my first booth and the curly CFLs in my second. For the monolight I bought mine from adorama for $50 - $60. Some people have had issues with them and have opted to put alien bees ($200).

BTW, if you are going to use your booth outside a strobe of some kind is necessary.

[alexsiskahn]

james is right, make the entire front of the enclosure out of a white piece of plexiglass or lexan,
plexiglass cracks easy so best not to use it.
if you cannot find white, get some frosted contact paper and apply to both sides.

your desing of having a gray panel and then cutting out openings for a smallish softbox is more time consuming and gives inferior lighting.

also all 3 of your designs are not what I recommend.

id' recommend what james says, one monolight from adorama for $80 or so.

[bkiter1]

Thank you guys for the suggestions!

The image below is an idea of the interior

For the lighting will be 2 curly CFLs, any suggestion for the Watts?

For the monolight the AlienBees™ B400 Flash Unit or since I'm on 220v , should I get this?
http://www.adorama.com/FP620A220.html

For daylight booth tower, what model of strobe is recommended? I will place the strobe between the 2 CFL's?

Thanks again!

http://www.firenzes.com/light/insidelight.jpg

[alexsiskahn]

http://www.adorama.com/FP320220.html
is what I would recommend
take out the modeling light, it is a fire hazard.
your 300WS strobe IS OVERKILL, you only need around 100watt seconds.

the fluorescent bulbs can be 60 or 100w equvalent, doesnt' really matter
if you used an all in one PC you could put your printer in the same electronics box thus saving you the hassle of plugging and unplugging cords constantly.

[bkiter1]

Thank you Alex!

Last question because im a little confused, you said to get rid of the CFL and just leave the strobe light? or should I replace the cfls and place an LED light
as a constant light, something like this? http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/738884-REG/Bescor_LED_60X_LED_60X_60W_All_in_One_LED.html

The strobe works as a modeling light and as flash, it I leave the constant light on, can it stand 4 hours working but it will get hot? so I should place a cooling fan?
Im asking this because most photobooths that I have seen have a constant light.

Thanks!

[LorneChesal]

I believe his point was to not use the Quartz modelling light that comes with the strobe he linked to. they run very hot and can be a fire hazard. Replace them with a cooler running CFL. You may have to hunt around for a CFL with a longer "neck" so it will fit in the modelling light socket of your strobe.

No need for a fan or concern about heat this way.

IMO, the downside to buying a less powerful strobe is that they are built less solidly. IMO, stick with your Alien bee and just turn it down to a low power setting. it's built better than some of the cheaper low end strobes.

[bkiter1]

Thank you Lorne, if I get the alienbees there's no need for the 2 CFL that I placed on the sides then right? I can use the model light from the alienbees

[LorneChesal]

Thank you Lorne, if I get the alienbees there's no need for the 2 CFL that I placed on the sides then right? I can use the model light from the alienbees


Maybe. If the one modelling light provides enough light for live view, then yes. My guess is you would likely want/need more ambient light for an accurate live view. That will be your call. My booth is lined in white, so the light is bounced around a fair bit.

[PhotoJames]

I don't think it's possible to put a CFL in the socket on the monolight. I put 4 CFLs in the box (a bit of overkill) using inexpensive sockets from HD. I run the booth with two of the CFLs as modeling light and if there is any issues with the monolight I can turn on the other two and run the booth with the CFLs. Bonus is that I have back ups for the modeling lights in the booth ready to go.

I believe his point was to not use the Quartz modelling light that comes with the strobe he linked to. they run very hot and can be a fire hazard. Replace them with a cooler running CFL. You may have to hunt around for a CFL with a longer "neck" so it will fit in the modelling light socket of your strobe.

No need for a fan or concern about heat this way.

IMO, the downside to buying a less powerful strobe is that they are built less solidly. IMO, stick with your Alien bee and just turn it down to a low power setting. it's built better than some of the cheaper low end strobes.

[chrisell]

The modeling light from the Alien Bee is what you should avoid, it burns too hot for enclosed space.

[bkiter1]

Thank you for the suggestions guys!

I will leave the modeling light to the 2 CFLS and just use the flash from the AlienBees.